SOUS LA TABLE...

Tabla, 11 Madison Avenue, (212)889-0667, Lunch: M-F, 12pm-2pm, Dinner: M-Sat., 5:30pm-10:30pm, Sun. 5:30pm-10pm. Bread bar: M-Sat., 12pm-11pm, Sun. 5:30pm-10:30pm.

It's not that I've got a thing for Danny Meyer, I swear. An Indian classmate was interested in going and Tabla was in my peripheral dining psyche as an upscale Indian restaurant. I love any Dehli Daba and knew I needed to check out. I dutifully printed out all the reviews I could find to read on the subway on my way after work on a rare Friday without class. Ruth Reichl noted, "The flavors are so powerful, original and unexpected that they evoke intense emotions. Those who do not like Tabla tend to dislike it with a passion."

I was ready for something that would challenge me. At the least I was ready for something revelatory.

The decor is lavish, not Vegas lavish but dark cave, hammered gold plate lavish. Downstairs, the bread-bar (left, outside seating) was full of people, the small tables full but we'd reserved the upstairs dining room where I started with the cocktail menu, a Kachumber Kooler ($12), billed as Tanqueray Ten Gin, green chillies, and cucumber and cilantro. Crisp, cool, with a little bite, it was a promising beginning to the evening. The menu is a three-course prix fixe consisting of an appetizer, a main Course and dessert ($64).

We started with some tasty papadum which was brought to the table with cocktails. A great beginning, salty, crisp papadum which doesn't fill you up until the sides arrive. Our sides, onion rings with chickpea flour batter, cornmeal and aleppo pepper ($9) and cheese kulcha naan stuffed with cheddar cheese and peppers ($9) came fairly quickly, brought by our waitress who was accomodating but too-friendly to the point of becoming a table-topic. The onion rings were a disappointment, greasy and only slightly covered with batter. It was time for another cocktail, the Masala Mary ($12), billed as "Smokey Indian Tomato Juice Blended with Ketel One and Chef’s own Pickled Onions." Not as good as the Kachumber Kooler but it certainly helped the onion rings go down. The cheese kulcha, however, was even more disappointing than the onion rings-- depressing, more like naan stuffed with velveeta. It seemed like the only way to go forward was to go back to what worked, a cocktail, the Kachumber Kooler to accompany the "Crab Cake Papadum, Avocado Salad and Tamarind Chutney," and "Spiced Dal Samosa Salad of Artichokes, Wild Watercress and Lime." Both of these dishes were more rewarding, the crab cake moreso, but crab cake with chutney, this is inventive?

Next up, the "Rawa Crisped Skate 'Grenobloise' Oregon Morels, Baby Spinach, Kokum & Lime," and the "Aged Strip Loin of Beef & Braised Brisket Greenmarket Fingerling Potatoes and Braised Kale." The skate was unimpressive but the beef strip loin was redeeming but in only in a way that properly-prepared steak makes a steak-eater happy, no more. Where was the visionary Indian fusion? A juicy steak and skate with kokum and lime is meant to be great food, Indian, haute cuisine?

Dessert was the "Chocolate Trio: Souffle Cake, Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Tart, Spiced Chocolate Ice Cream," ($12) and "Tahitian Vanilla Bean Kulfi: Blood Oranges, Rosemary-Rosewater Syrup and Pistachio Tuile" ($15). Both desserts were serviceable and there was some salt to the chocolate dessert which gave it the lead but it was not extraordinary and we didn't finish either dessert.

Perhaps it's not fair to Executive Chef Floyd Cardoz and if not, blame the New York Times. The review set my expectations too high. Perhaps my love for Indian food excited me about the potential for haute cuisine, Indian-style to an unreasonable point. Either way, I was truly surprised by how banal the food was. The cheese naan kulcha failed but at least it was trying. I'd rather see some playfulness with raita, versions of palak paneer, butter chicken and aloo gobi. The other surprise? The check. True we drank about 5 cocktails at $12 a pop but still, the total did not match up with what we were served.

There were other things on the menu more enticing which I'm curious about: "Tapioca Crusted Soft Shell Crabs Spring Onions, Spring Garlic & Roasted Chillie-Crab Curry;" and from the $79 tasting menus, "Vermont Spring Baby Lamb Asparagus, Fava Beans & Caramelized Onion-Coconut Jus;" the "Passion Fruit-Carrot Cake Kumquat Marmalade, Spiced Caramel Ice Cream & Passion Fruit Caramel;" the "Roasted Langoustine & Lobster Baby Carrots, Turnips & Leeks, Maple-Tamarind Jus;" and the horseradish humuus-- but none so intriguing as to compel my return. I suppose I'd go back to try the bread bar but I'd prepare my wallet for the number of Kachumber Koolers I'd be plying myself with.

We walked up to Herald Square, still hungry and visited a Korean bar and lounge where one of our friends from class worked. We left there full and much much happier.

TOTAL SPENT: TK

20 WORDS AND UNDER: It's probably unfair to read old reviews. The bread bar is my only uncompelling temptation to return.