DUMONT BURGER

DuMont Burger, 314 Bedford Ave (b/n S. 1st & 2nd St.), Williamsburg, (718) 384-6127

For years, if I needed to sate a burger-jonesing and I wasn't in the mood to go far, I've been going to Teddy's on Berry. I'd left relatively satisfied but would find myself returning, trying different topping combinations, like someone tyring to find that comfortable nap-spot that once disturbed, you can never quite find again. I've been casually searching for Williamsburg's best burger since moving here 5 years ago but have only lately realized there's more to life than the North streets of Bedford Avenue. When I walked by DuMont Burger on the way to Dressler I knew I'd have to visit soon.

Three burgers later, I'm smitten.

First, the burger ($9.50), a slight char and juicy. The bun, brioche, soft-shell crust smells sweet, buttery is an ample handle for the pattie and holds up to the burger through the last bite. The fries are well-seasoned, cut substantially thick and are faintly, but pleasantly woody. I've had the burger plain, with cheese and with avocado and carmelized onions ($11.50, left)-- each time I walked away satisfied but something was different. I didn't have the vague memory that I'd eaten a burger somewhere, that I'd tried to satisfy a craving, instead I had a need, to return.

I did return, to try something else on the menu, the macaroni and cheese, and the special, a tuna burger with mango chutney ($13, left). Same brioche bun, decent char on the tuna, juicy and pink. No burger, but certainly tasty-- certainly good if you need a burger and you have a non-meat eating date. As for the macaroni and cheese, if you're planning on eating something else too, you'd better share it, it's a lot to tackle. Super-gooey, white cheese inside with a light, crisp, crust on top-- good texture contrast. At least for now, I proclaim it the best in Williamsburg.

For dessert I tried the apple crumble ($4), the coffee-cake-like crumble bits, were 1/4 marble-size and softly-crunchy. I'm not huge on cinammon-apple but as far as that goes, it was good. Next time I'd try the chocolate dessert, or another burger.

TOTAL SPENT: Solo burger, $15, including tip. Burger, tuna burger, 2 drinks, and dessert ($38.47, plus tip)

20 WORDS OR LESS? Teddy who? DuMont Burger means Williamsburg's best.