KITCHEN TORO EATS LONG ISLAND: VALENCIA

This introduces a new feature on Kitchen Toro, Eat Long Island, which will highlight food and restaurants on Long Island.

Valencia Deli, 82 Broadway, Lynbrook, (516) 593-5862.

I live in Greenpoint but my childhood home in New York is the town of Merrick on the South Shore of Long Island, about a 45-minute drive away. Besides seeing family on Long Island I visit for the beaches, the vineyards in the Hamptons, the food and less fun errands like repairing the car and in the case of this weekend, going to my dentist in Hewlett.

Today I visited Lynbrook and passed Valencia Deli, an Italian delicatessen which makes its own heroes, manicotti, ravioli and sauces. As a teenager Sunday afternoon meant Mom made an early dinner and my grandfather, John Tortorello, brought semolina bread with sesame seeds from XXXX. Some Sundays dinner was the ravioli from Valencia. As I drove by I noticed a sign in the store's window which read "Under New Mangagement." It seemed a good time to test my fond memories against the new ownership's handiwork.

The folks behind the counter were friendly and Italian-American or at least they called Manicotti, 'Manicott.' I picked up some interesting things from the shelves: Amarena Fabri Wild Cherries in Heavy Syrup, Orange Flower Water, Lupini Beans, Anisette sugar, Galeffi Effervescent, and Ceci beans (known as garbanzo or chick peas which we had dried, fried and used as croutons in a salad at school, very nice).

I also bought a 'Valencia Special,' which was advertised as 'Cappy Ham, Pepperoni, Salami, Provolone w/lettuce, tomato, sweet peppers, onions, oil & vinegar on a Hero," and cost $6.50. The hero bread had a good give, there was a good amount of meat on the sandwich, not too much oil and vinegar but enough to flavor every bite and a salty-sweet paste that might have been made of anchovies. It was a good hero and I'd stop for one again if I wasn't feeling adventurous enough to try out new places or stopping by other old favorites.

Of course, the real test will be the manicotti and the ravioli. I brought home a batch of their marinara, their meat sauce and their vodka sauce and we'll be testing them out on Sunday afternoon.