TACO-TIME: NEW YORK TIMES PREP EDITION

So I got an interesting call on Thursday afternoon from the picture editor at the Dining section at The New York Times. I'd been recommended by one of the editors I used to work with there as someone who could do some cooking for some pictures accompanying an upcoming article.

I've learned enough in life to know that the most important thing when offered an terrific opportunity is to just say yes and then figure out how you're going to do whatever it is you just agreed to. In this case the assignment is to cook tacos for an article by Mark Bittman.

Here's what I know:

1. I'll be cooking next week at some point probably Tuesday
   
2. The tacos may be cover art for the following week
3. I probably won't have a recipe until close to when I cook
4. I'll be cooking at the photographer's house
5. I've never cooked tacos before
   

Hold on, here we go after the jump...

For years I've been a fan of Mark's book, "How To Cook Everything." My first step was to check my beat up copy to see if there was an tacos entry in it. There wasn't and I'm not keen on going into a photo shoot unprepared so I went to the bookstore and found one of Mark's other books that does, "The Best Recipes in the World."

Today's agenda:

1. Chicken and Pork Tacos
2. Guacamole
3. Salsa Fresca
4. Refried Beans
   

The recipe for chicken tacos in Mark's book calls for shredded chicken. That's all well and good but I've never made shredded chicken so before going any further I had to find a recipe for that.

Ehow.com's Recipe For Shredded Chicken

1 Onion, chopped
Salt
2 Qt Water
3 Large Chicken Breast
4 Bay Leaves
1 Teaspoon Dried Oregano

Put chopped onion, salt and 2 QT water in a large pot, boil and add 3 large chicken breasts. Skim off any foam that surfaces. Let chicken cook for 2 minutes, add 4 bay leaves and 1 teaspoon of dried oregano and lower the heat to medium. Cook for 12 minutes and remove from the heat. If time allows, let the chicken cool in the broth. Remove chicken to a cutting board, discard the broth and using two forks, shred the meat into thin strips (except I didn't discard the broth, I strained & froze it in my freezer for future use).

The Bittman recipe also calls for lard, which I'm sure you can buy but not at my local supermarket (left) where I visited this morning to supply myself with ingredients, so I'd have to find some directions and render my own lard first.

By the way, never shop hungry...between Key and my local fruit and vegetable stand I came home with all kinds of fruit-- I mean really, what's that thing in on the left in the foreground? I don't know.


Rendering lard isn't difficult-- just time-consuming. I bought several packets of pork fat at the supermarket, trimmed off most of the remaining meat, cut the fat in small pieces, threw it in a pot with I'd a little water and turned up the heat.

As heated up and the fat started to melt I added a little more water to prevent scorching at the bottom. I've heard that pork fat in pastry is something special so I'll be reserving my lard for future experimentation. I'm also going to have to do this again sometime with duck fat as I've been repeatedly told that this is a must to cook with.

I strained out the small, remaining pieces of meat and returned the liquid to the stovetop. As the liquid reduced got thicker and thicker, it also turned tan and the bubbles became increasingly smaller. Don't think about what it is you're doing too much or where it's going to go or the whole operation might have to be abandoned.

The recipe I found advised to "carefully dip the liquid off the top into clean containers. Strain the cracklings and residual liquid through cheese cloth. Fill containers to the top -- the lard will contract quite a bit while cooling. Chill as quickly as possible for a fine-grained shortening."

Having finished rendering the lard it was time for the chicken tacos recipe.

Chicken Tacos, "The Best Recipes in the World" (pps 323-24)

3 Tablespoons Lard (traditional) or corn, grapeseed, & more for deep-frying
2 Garlic Cloves, minced
2 Jalapenos, stemmed, seeded, and diced, or to taste
1 Small Onion, diced
1 LB Ripe Tomatoes, cored & diced (tomatillas are better)
3 Cups Skinned and Shredded Cooked Chicken
Salt & Black Pepper to Taste
Twelve 5-inch Corn Tortillas
½ Cup Shredded Lettuce or Cabbage
½ Cup Queso Fresco, Crumbled, or Grated Cheddar Cheese

Heat 3 tablespoons of lard or oil in a skillet on medium-high heat. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and 2 stemmed, seeded and diced jalapenos and cook 10 seconds. Then add 1 small, diced onion and sweat until softens, about five minutes.

Stir in 1 LB diced tomatoes, and cook 10 minutes. Add 3 cups shredded chicken and cook until liquid is absorbed, 5-10 minutes then season with salt & pepper and remove from heat.

Add at least 2 inches of lard or oil to a heavy skillet or saucepan. Heat to 350°F (fat will shimmer and taco will sizzle when put in oil). Fold tortilla in half and secure with a toothpick. When oil is 350°F gently slide tacos into oil and cook turning occasionally until crisp and golden, about 5 minutes. Don't overcrowd.

Drain on paper towels, remove toothpicks, add lettuce and cheese and serve.

The end result at right with refried beans and salsa, both recipes also from the same book. The tacos? You could taste the pork fat on them. Ahem, they were pre-tty tasty, especially with the salsa on top (I'd make that again), a squeeze of lemon juice, a little sour cream and that queso fresca (that might work as the cheese in a paneer too...). Personally, I don't need them fried and the whole toothpick thing doesn't work quite as well as advertised. I'd do the soft taco version, steamed tortillas.

If pressed to fry again, I'd try the flautas and try to duplicate Chico's Tacos...hey, now THAT'S an idea.

It was so hot...HOW HOT WAS IT? It was so hot and I was so hungry I completely forgot about taking pictures of the bowl of guacamole I made and putting it on the plate with the tacos, beans, salsa and sour cream. Here it is at right with some shredded chicken.

I don't know that they want me to make these things for the photo shoot but because I'm slightly touched and don't like doing things halfway, I made refried beans, guacamole and salsa as you can see above. As a result, I didn't get to the pork and the steak dishes. The recipes for the refried beans, guacamole (I want a molcajete!), and salsa follow. And remember, when dicing jalapenos...DON'T TOUCH YOUR FACE. As it is after cutting the jalapenos for the chicken, the guacamole and the salsa my hands started to tingle.

Bon appetit...

Refried Beans, "The Best Recipes in the World" (p. 438)

½ LB Dried Red Beans, Rinsed and Picked Over
Severl Fresh Epazote Sprigs or 1 Teaspoon Dried, optional
2 Garlic Cloves, Peeled and Crushed
2 Tablespoons Ground Cumin, or to taste
Salt & Black Pepper to taste
1 Teaspoon Minced Garlic
¼ Cup Corn, Grapeseed, or other neutral oil
1 Cup Chopped Onion
Slat & Black Pepper to taste
¼ Teaspoon Cayenne, or more if desired

If time allows, soak ½ LB dried red beans overnight or several hours in water to cover, then drain. Combine with water to cover in a pot over medium-high heat. When mix boils, add epazote, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tablespoon cumin, partially cover and adjust heat so mixture simmers steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally until beans are tender and most of the water has evaporated , at least an hour (probably more), add water as necessary to keep beans covered.

When beans are tender, add salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon minced garlic. Put oil in large skillet on medium heat-- when hot add 1 cup chopped onion and cook, stirring until golden brown (10 minutes).

Add 1 tablespoon cumin, and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add beans and mash. Cook and mash, stirring until beans are mostly broken up. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste.

Guacamole, "The Best Recipes in the World" (p. 438)

"In Mexico, guacamole is traditionally made in a molcajete, a mortar made from volcanic rock. it's a lovely tradition, but since you probably don't have a molcajete, use a bowl and fork or a potato masher."

1 Lime
1 Garlic Clove, minced
1 Scallion, 1 Shallot or bit of Red Onion, trimmed & chopped
1 Serrano/Jalapeno chile, stem, seed, & mince (or ancho/cayenne)
½ Teaspoon Coarse Salt (to taste)
2 Tablespoons Chooped, Fresh Cilantro
3 Medium-Ripe Avocados

Grate lime zest and reserve. Cut lime in wedges. Put lime zest, minced garlic clove, chopped scallion, minced jalapeno, and ½ teaspoon of salt in a bowl and mash until mixture is combined. Add 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro and mash.

Cut avocados in half and reserve pits if not serving guacamole immediately to prevent browning. Scoop pulp into bowl and mash leaving a few chunks. Squeeze lime juice from wedges to taste.

Season with salt and serve or tuck pits back in, cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours.

Salsa Fresca, "The Best Recipes in the World" (p. 610)

2 Large Ripe, Fresh Tomatoes, cored & chopped
½ Large White Onion, minced
¼ Teaspoon Minced Garlic, or to taste
1 Habanero or Jalapeno Chile, stemmed, seeded and minced
¼ Cup Chopped, Fresh Cilantro
1 Tablespoon fresh Lime Juice or 1 Teaspoon Red Wine Vinegar
Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper

Mix all ingredients, taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. If possible, let flavors marry for 15 minutes or so before serving. Serve within a couple of hours.