Thursday, August 31, 2006

THURSDAY THE LONG WAY: CAPRESE

Thursday highlights food from out of the way places, food memories that have formed the way I view food, both cooking it and eating it. These memories may be inspired by recent meals, the food-media, or anything at all.

There are certain things that no matter how many times you've eaten them, you just can't help yourself but order them. One such thing for me (among many others) is Mozzarella Caprese.

Mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, olive oil, a touch of vinegar maybe, just a little bit of heaven on a plate. I can't for the life of me remember the first time I had this dish but I can tell you I ordered it throughout my teens without a second thought. Mozarella Caprese is like Manicotti, very simple but very telling of the restaurant you're eating in. These dishes are standards in Italian-American trattorias. They're always there and can take you to a higher realm of enjoyment if they're done the right way but if you get one or the other and they're sub-par I'll bet most of the other food is too.

My love for this dish has become a search to find the ultimate version of it. It's a curse I tell you, a curse!

Seriously though, there are some criteria for a good mozzarella caprese: the tomatoes have to be fresh and the mozzarella, well it better not be cold and hard. Good mozzarella means not cold and kind of semi-hard, not pizza mozarella (God help us all) but soft, and creamy, dissolve on your tongue mozzarella. I'm pretty sure the best version of the dish I ever had was with burrata, a mozzarella to which cream is added, though embarassingly enough I can't say where I had it.

FULL POST...

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

HERE A FENNEL, THERE A FENNEL...

Between Monday's dish and tonight's I feel as though there's some sinister fennel pusher wearing a green trenchcoat who has been selling the dill-looking fronds to our chefs. Today's recipe features a sauteed fish in a tomato and fennel broth!

More after class on the jump...

DISH: Sautéed Fillet of Bass in a Fennel and Tomato Broth, Filet De Bar Sauté Au Jus De Fenouil Et Tomate

RECIPE:

The Tomato Fondue
500 G Tomatoes
50 G Shallots
½ Garlic, Germ Removed
2 Tablespoons Blended Olive Oil
Bouquet Garni

The Fennel
1 Large Fennel Bulb
250 ML White Wine
125 ML Pernod
500 ML Fish Stock
Bouquet Garni with Fennel Seeds
3 Dozen Littleneck Clams
Salt & Freshly Ground Pepper

The Garnish and Fish
8 Baby Bok Choy
8 Portions Bass Fillet, 100-gram, Skin on
125 ML Blended Olive Oil
1 Tablespoon Minced Tarragon
Note: Wild striped bass may be substituted according to the season.

Procedure:

FONDUE Prepare the tomato fondue in the usual manner. Remove the bouquet and garlic and transfer the mixture to a large sautoir.

FENNEL Trim the fennel and cut vertically into 24 slices. Add the fennel to the tomatoes along with the wine, Pernod, fish stock, and bouquet garni. Add the clams and cook just until open. Remove them from the pan and discard any that did not open. Continue cooking the fennel until it is tender.

GARNISH AND FISH Cook the bok choy à l'anglaise and refresh. Cut lengthwise in 3 pieces and set aside. Season the fillets with salt and pepper; salt lightly on the skin side. Heat the oil in a wide sauteuse and sear the fish for 1 to 2 minutes, just until the skin turns golden. Place the fillet in a pan and ladle the broth and vegetables around them, making sure the liquid just comes to the edge of the fillets. Simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes until the fish is cooked through, adding the clams at the last few moments to warm them. Place a portion of the bass in the center of a wide-rimmed shallow bowl and arrange 3 alternating pieces ecach of bok choy and fennel. Place some clams around, ladle on a bit of the broth, and sprinkle with the minced tarragon.

BREAKDOWN: Between today's dish and Monday's Fish Stew Marseilles-Style, I'm wondering what is so special about fennel in August and September. On the face I liked this dish better than the stew because the fish was sautéed before being added to the broth giving it some more color and flavoring. But in the end I think I liked the way the rouille thickened the broth of the "stew" better on Monday than the end result today.

For service we multiplied the recipe by four times. While I'd prefer to eat the Monday fish dish, I'd rather get this one on the final as it didn't seem to have as much prep-work.

FULL POST...

WEDNESDAY WASH-DOWN: BEST BETS

Wednesday is food day, when most newpapers publish food sections, thus, Wednesday Wash-Down. Highlights, from the most interesting to me to the least:

#1 WPOST »» Scossa Restaurant & Lounge 2*'d, 5th Annual Readers' Choice: The Best of the Best, Meal assembly kitchens, Champagne grapes, Weekly Dish, Indian Gourmet, Town Hall, Um--why run an AP wire on corn chowder?
#2 SFC » Salang Pass 2*'d, Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants, Cook's Night Out: Mia Ponce
#3 NYT »» Felidia 3*'d, Pigs in a Blanket Ride Again! Hi-ho silver, away!!, Amuse-bouches, FCI to become ICC, Cheese crisps, World's greatest sandwich, Lobster-salad, $25 & Under: Sake Bar Hagi, Off the Menu
#4 NYSUN »» Intent, Taste of the Cocktail, Union Square: NY's food Mecca, Kitchen Dish
#5 LAT » Hatfield's 21/2*'d, Nibs, ABC's of Salumi, Cookbook Watch: Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving: 400 Delicious and Creative Recipes for Today
#6 DAILY NEWS »» Strawberry shortcake a la Coney Island, Eat celeb-style
#7 NYPOST »» Strong on frugal tasting menus

Out of the Game: NYOBSERVER, (4 reviews since 6/21)

MAGAZINES:
NY Magazine»» Fall Preview. The outdoor dining list

Well, I could tell you to click on "Full Post," for the jump but Eater seems to be on vacation this week and so it appears that Brunibetting, and the Eater oddsmakers won't be setting the Eater Odds on Frank Bruni's NYT Review...

So, the score as of 7/18: Eater, 3/7

OF NOTE since last Wednesday:
NYPOST: Strong on the Tasting Room
WPOST: Bacon & Eggs with a twist
DAILY NEWS: The return of the Automat, Tacos before the Open

FULL POST...

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

FINAL PROJECT DISH #1: MURGH MARKANI

So I've got one dish down for my final project, my Murgh Makhani, a Cornish Game Hen Butter Chicken-Style with Palak Paneer with Naan and Cucumber-Radish Raita. This is the dish that inspired my menu and it came about when I thought about a dinner I had with a classmate at Tabla back in April. I was very disappointed by the food at Tabla. While the restaurant used Indian spices and flavors it's stretch to haute cuisine missed the mark for me. There wasn't any fun in it.

Some of the flavors were there but my standard Delhi Dhaba fare wasn't there. It wasn't even reinterpreted much, sure there was a cheese kulcha but it was more whiz (cheese than bang!) and no nod to Gulab Jamun or Butter Chicken? One of my most favorite food experience this past year was at A Voce when I tasted Chef Carmellini's duck meatballs. Why can't dhaba fare be reinterpreted into haute cusine? Suddenly I started to come up with other dishes from the equivalent of dhabas in other cultures which I thought could be played with in a way to make cliched classics into dishes that could be served white-linen style with or without the linens. Thus my theme, REMINAGINED CLASSICS FROM GLOBAL DHABAS.

When it finally came calling on me, the inspiration flashed quickly, but the cooking of this cornerstone dish would be anything but quick. In fact, it's probably going to be the most difficult dish because there are a lot of homemade components: homemade yogurt, homemade paneer cheese and a sauce and marinade that use complicated spice blends.

And as much as I love Indian food, I've had more experience eating it than cooking it so some research was necessary. I relied heavily upon one book in particular, 1,000 Indian Recipes by Neelam Batra for inspiration and guidance. On the jump, the whole proverbial ball of wax from scratch to sniff...hang on.

THE CHICKEN
I looked through many, many recipes or butter chicken to try to determine how they might differ:

-CDKitchen had several recipes for Butter Chicken that I waded through.
-The Food Network also featured a recipe for Butter Chicken (Indian Chicken in Tomato Cream Sauce).
-Cooks.com also had two recipes for this chicken dish, Butter Chicken and Indian Butter Chicken.
-SIFY food linked to a recipe for Butter Chicken by Shaheen Ahmed from Abu Dhabi.
-INDOlink had a recipe for Butter Chicken by Anuradha Burman.
-Cusine Du Monde also included a recipe for this popular chicken dish.
-Wikipedia even had a recipe for Butter Chicken, or Murgh Markani (pronounced muck-knee) as well as some information about the history of the dish:

Butter chicken or murgh makhani is an Indian dish popular in countries all over the world that have a tradition of Indian restaurants. The dish was invented by accident at Kake Da Hotel in Connaught Place, New Delhi. While the dish's general recipe is well known, the actual flavor can vary from restaurant to restaurant even within Delhi.
It is a dish made by marinating a chicken overnight in a yoghurt and spice mixture usually including ginger, lemon or lime, pepper, coriander, cumin, chilli, methi and garlic. It is in some ways similar to chicken tikka masala.
The chicken is then roasted or baked.
A sauce is made from butter, tomatoes, almonds and various spices, often including cumin, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, pepper, fenugreek and sometimes cream. Once the sauce is prepared the marinated and roasted chicken is chopped and added to it.


-Finally, there was the recipe for the chicken which I came across for Wednesday Wash-Down from the Washington Post.

But what were the differences between the recipes and which one was the best to use? Some recipes used tumeric, coriander, allspice, cashews, almonds, cumin, honey, tomato paste, cayenne, ginger, chili powder, even frozen peas and tomato sauce! So what to do? Well, almost all the recipes used garlic and ginger pastes and an ingredient called garam masala. I decided to base my recipe on a mixture of some of the many ingredients which appealed to me from the different recipes. Using the recipe from the Washington Post as a guide I altered it with additional spices.

Turo's Chicken Makani with Cornish Game Hen

For Chicken Marinade:
1 Teaspoon Plus 2 Tablespoons Chili Powder
3 Tablespoons Lime Juice
1 ½ Teaspoons Salt (to taste)
1 Cornish Game Hen, Quartered
1 Cup Plain Yogurt
2 Tablespoons Garlic Paste
1 Teaspoon Ginger Paste
½ Teaspoon Garam Masala (powdered Indian spice blend)
2 Tablespoons Vegetable or Canola Oil
1 to 2 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter, Melted, for Basting

For the Sauce:
1 to 2 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter
1 Tablespoon Combination of Whole Cloves, 1/4 of a Crumbled Cinnamon Stick, Whole Black Pepper, Cardamom Seeds (Whole Garam Masala Blend)
1 Tablespoon Coriander
1 Tablespoon Garlic Paste
1 Tablespoon Ginger Paste
1 Tablespoon Seeded and Shopped Mild Chili Peppers
1 Cup Crushed Tomatoes
1 Tablespoon Sun-dried Tomato Puree
1 Teaspoon Chili Powder
1 Teaspoon Tumeric
1 Cup Water
Salt
½ Teaspoon Sugar
½ Teaspoon Honey
1 Cup Heavy Cream or Half-and-Half
1½ Cup Milk
3 Tablespoons Cashews
1 Tablespoon Almond Paste

For Chicken & Marinade: Quarter chicken and reserve trimmings. Mix 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 tablespoon lime juice and salt, to make a paste. Rub paste into the meat. Place chicken in a resealable plastic food storage bag and let it rest, refrigerated, for 30 minutes.

Line a colander with cheesecloth and place the yogurt on it to drain for 15 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of chili powder, salt to taste, garlic and ginger pastes, the remaining 2 tablespoons of lime juice, garam masala and oil, stirring to combine. Add the marinade to the chicken, making sure the meat is evenly coated. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Remove the quartered chicken from the marinade (reserving the marinade). Pat dry the quartered pieces. In a large pan heat a few tablespoons of vegetable oil and a tablespoon of butter. Sear all sides of the chicken pieces then remove from pan. Bake in a large ungreased baking dish for 20 minutes on top of the marinade, and baste the chicken with melted butter. Turn and repeat basting, bake for 20 more minutes, or until the chicken is almost cooked through but still moist.

For the sauce: Meanwhile, in a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Brown the reserved trimmings and then discard them. Add the whole garam masala, which will crackle. Then add the garlic and ginger pastes and chopped chili peppers. Cook for a few minutes until the mixture is fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes, sun-dried tomato paste, chili powder, tumeric, garam masala, and the water. Add salt to taste. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Add the sugar and honey, then the cream or half-and-half, stirring constantly.

Strain sauce if desired (I did and it doesn't leave you with much so if you're not going for that smooth, silky, 'refined' look don't bother, left). Separately, mix ¾ milk with cashews and almond paste in a food processor and blend til smooth. Add nut paste to strained sauce add the remaining ¾ cup milk and mix over medium heat.

Either serve with sauce draped over chicken or transfer the chicken to the pot, stirring to coat them with the sauce, and cook for 5 minutes. If using cubes of chicken breast (proceed with marinade identically but transfer pieces to the pot, coat, cook and serve).

Chicken Makani (Indian Butter Chicken, Washington Post, June 28, 2006, F5)
6 to 8 servings
Here, the sauce can be done 1 day ahead. All of the ingredients -- including garlic and ginger pastes, dried fenugreek leaves, ground and whole spices for garam masala -- can be found in the international aisle of large supermarkets. To make this vegetarian, substitute large cubes of panir cheese for the chicken. Serve with naan (Indian flatbread) and basmati or jasmine rice.

For the chicken and marinade:
1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons chili powder
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus additional to taste
About 1 3/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (may substitute chicken breasts, cut in thigh-size pieces)
1 cup plain yogurt (not nonfat)
2 tablespoons garlic paste
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1/2 teaspoon garam masala (powdered Indian spice blend)
2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, for basting

For the sauce:
1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon combination of whole cloves, 1/4 of a crumbled cinnamon stick, whole black pepper, cardamom seeds (whole garam masala blend)
1 tablespoon garlic paste
1 tablespoon ginger paste
1 tablespoon seeded and chopped mild chili peppers (optional)
1 3/4 cups tomato puree
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon garam masala (powdered)
1/2 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves (also known as kasturi methi)
1 cup water
Salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar, or to taste (may substitute 2 tablespoons honey)
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half.

For the chicken and marinade: Combine 1 teaspoon of the chili powder, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice and the salt, blending to make a paste. Make shallow cuts in the chicken and rub the paste into the meat. Place the chicken in a resealable plastic food storage bag and let it rest, refrigerated, for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, line a colander with cheesecloth and place the yogurt on it to drain for 15 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of chili powder, salt to taste, garlic and ginger pastes, the remaining 2 tablespoons of lime juice, garam masala and oil, stirring to combine. Add the marinade to the chicken, making sure the meat is evenly coated. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Remove the chicken from the marinade (discarding the marinade). Bake in a large ungreased baking dish for 20 minutes, then baste it with the melted butter. Turn and bake for 20 more minutes or until the chicken is almost cooked through but still moist.

For the sauce: Meanwhile, in a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the whole garam masala, which will crackle. Then add the garlic and ginger pastes and chopped chili peppers, if desired. Cook for a few minutes until the mixture is fragrant. Add the tomato puree, chili powder, garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves and the water. Add salt to taste. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Add the sugar, then the cream or half-and-half, stirring constantly. (The dark sauce will turn an orangey pink.) Transfer the cooked chicken pieces to the pot, stirring to coat them with the sauce, and cook for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Per serving (based on 8): 202 calories, 18 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 11 g fat, 59 mg cholesterol, 5 g saturated fat, 520 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber.

THE PALAK PANEER
I've always wondered what the difference was between Palak Paneer and Saag Paneer. From what I've been able to glean it seems the difference is that Saag Paneer can be made with greens other than spinach, say for instance mustard greens. I'm definitely interested in making Palak Paneer because that's the dish you'll find in most dhabas, at least the ones I've been to. In Palak Paneer, the spinach is accompanied by small cubes of cheese (some places cheat with a creamed spinach, they shouldn't-- it's a poor substitute).

For my menu, I wanted to make everything from scratch, including the cheese. I followed a recipe for the Paneer cheese from 1,000 Indian Recipes:

Paneer (1,000 Indian Recipes, pps. 43-44)
Makes 8 ounces or about 30 1¼-inch places

Paneer cheese, made by curdling milk with something sour, such as yogurt, lemon juice or vinegar, and then seaparating the curds from the whey, is also called Indian cottage cheese or farmer's cheese. This soft, spongy cheese with its sweet, milky aroma is perservativ-free, has no artificial additives, and can be made with low-fat or whole milk (nonfat milk will not work; you'll end up with a hard and leathery cheese).
Paneer cheese doesn't melt when heated, although too much stirring will cause it to break. Freshly made paneer cheese, warm and right out of the cheesecloth, is much prized for its own taste. Indians love it just by itself, or dressed with a little chaat masala, a savory and spicy seasoning blend that instantly perks up flavors, and fresh herbs. I even serve paneer cheese as part of an antipasto platter, giving it an Italian twist with salt, pepper, chopped fresh basil, and balsamic vinegar. Paneer is easy to scatter over salad, or add to pizza, lasagna, sandwiches, and rice, which can be used in curries, stews, and even desserts.
When making paneer cheese, use only heavy-bottomed aluminum or anodized metal pans, and to avoid accidental spills, add the curdling agent almost as soon as you can see bubbles rising in the milk.
Paneer cheese stays fresh in the refrigerator about 5 days and can also be frozen. To freeze, cut into desired size pieces, stand each piece on a plate in a single layer and freeze. When frozen, transfer to plastic freezer bags and freeze 3 to 4 months. This enables you to remove and use only the number of pieces you need for the recipe.
As an alternative, you can buy paneer cheese in the refrigerator section of Indian markets.

½ Gallon Lowfat or Whole Milk
2 Cups Plain Yogurt, Nonfat or any kind, whisked until smooth, or ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, or a mixture of both
1 (2-foot square) Piece of Fine Muslin or 4 layers of cheesecloth.

1. Place the milk in a large, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring gently, over high heat. Before the milk boils and the bubbles spill over, mix in the yogurt or the lemon juice, and continue to stir until the milk curdles and separates into curds and whey, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Drape the muslin or cheesecloth over a large pan and pour the curdled milk over it. As you do this, the whey drains through the cloth into the pan, and the curdled paneer cheese remains in the cloth.

3. With the paneer cheese still inside it, pick up the cloth from the pan and tie the ends of the cloth around the kitchen faucet to drain, making sure that the cheese is a few inches above the bottom of the sink. Allow to drain 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Remove from the faucet and gently twist the cloth snugly around the cheese, then place the cheese between two salad-size plates (or any other flat surfaces), with the twisted cloth edges placed to one side, out of the way. Place a large pan of water on the top plate and let the cheese drain further, 10 to 12 minutes. (Do this close to the sink or within a baking pan, or you'll have a mess to clean up.)

5. Remove the pan of water from the paneer cheese (which, by now, should have compressed into a chunk), cut into desired shapes and sixzes and use as needed. Sotore in an airtight container in the refrigerator 4 to 5 days or freeze up to 4 months.

Variations: Paneer cheese can also be made with about ½ cup fresh or bottled lemon or lime juice, 3 to 4 tablespoons white or any other vinegar, or 1 quart buttermilk. Lemon juice and vinegar will yield about 6½ ounces of paneer cheese, and the buttermilk will yield about 8 ounces. Paneer cheese can also be made with non-dairy soy milk (made from bean curd or tofu) or with a mixture of soy milk and milk. Make both these variations as you would with milk, and follow the directions above.

I followed the recipe for the cheese and was pleasantly surprised by how well it turned out and how simple the recipe actually was. While I compared and came up with my own recipe for butter chicken based on research into about 9 recipes I found online, I made my Palak Paneer based on one recipe I found on RecipeDelights.com.

Palak Paneer
½ KG Spinach
100 G Paneer
1 Onion
3 Tablespoons Butter
2-3 Bay Leaves
1 Teaspoon Cumin Seeds
Salt to Taste
¼ Teaspoon Black Pepper Powder
¾ Teaspoon Ginger-garlic Paste
½ Garam Masala Powder
Vegetable Oil As Required

1. Mix ginger-garlic paste, green chili paste and some water with spinach. Pressure cook it for about 7-8 minutes (just before the first whistle). 2. But paneer into small cubes. Keep 3 cubes separately for decoration.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter. Fry the paneer pieces on 'medium' heat til they turn slightly brown. Set the paneer pieces aside.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter. Fry bay leaves and cumin seeds. Add chopped onion. Fry until the onions become pink.
5. Add salt, black pepper powder, garma masala. Stir well.
6. Add paneer and cooked spinach (grinded). Mix well. 7. Put palak paneer in a baking tray. 8. Add rest of the butter. Bake for ½ hour at 180°C (356°F)

I did alter the recipe. First, I shocked the spinach in an icebath to try to help it keep its green color. I also decided that the spinach could use more flavor so doubled the ginger and garlic from ¾ of a teaspoon to 1½. I also lowered the baking temperature to 200°F.

THE RAITA
The yogurt was made from scratch using whole Stonybrook Milk and a recipe for Ghar ki Dahi (from 1,000 Indian Recipes, p. 42). The Cucumber and Radish Raita was then adapted from 1,000 Indian Recipes below.

Turo's Cucumber and Radish Raita
1 Teaspoon Chaat Masala
2 Cups Nonfat, Plain Yogurt, Whisked Until Smooth (Ghar ki Dahi, p.42)
1 Cucumber, Peeled and Grated
5 Radishes, Grated
½ Teaspoon Salt, or to taste
½ Teaspoon Freshly Ground Black Pepper, Or To Taste
½ Teaspoon Ground Paprika
! Teaspoon Minced Cilantro

Prepare the chaat masala. Place the yogurt in a serving bowl. Add the cucumbers, radishes, chaat masala, salt, and pepper and stir to mix well. Garnish with the paprika and cilantro and serve.

Ghar ki Dahi (1,000 Indian Recipes, p. 42)
Makes about 4 cups
Yogurt-making is a simple, easy, and very gratifying art. With very little work, you can have fresh yogurt or curd, as it is called in India every day-- the kind that is naturally sweet and has active cultures. Furthermore, you can rest assured that hommade yogurt is free of all the unnecessary and artificial additives added to prolong the shelf life of its store-bought counterpart.
Any and all types of pots and pans may be used though I find terra-cotta and ceramic ones to be the best. But this is partly sentiment--my mother always maintained that these containers added a certain claming and cooling effect to the body-warming yogurst.
Made with milk and a starter (store-bought yogurt with live cultures or yogurt from a previous homemade batch), homemade yogurt is delicate, sweet and smooth. It can be made with any type of milk--whole, 2 percent, 1 pewrcent, or nonfat. For health reasons I generally make mine with nonfat milk.

4 Cups Milk
2 Tablespoons Plain Yogurt, Nonfat or Any Kind, With Active Culture
1 Pot Holder
1 or 2 Large, Thick Kitchen Towels

1. Bring the milk to a boil, stirring frequently with a metal spatula in a heavy aluminum saucepan. (Do not use lightweight stainless steel or nonstick Teflon or Silverstone-coated saucepans; stainless steel is not a good cunductor of heat, invariably burning the milk, and in the coated pans a layer of brown skin forms at the bottom of the pot, ruining the entire project.)
2. Alternately, put the milk in a large microwave-safe bowl and boil, uncovered, on high power until bubbles rise to the top, 9 to 10 minutes. Remove from the microwave as soon as it boils.
3. Trasnfer to a yogurt pot (preferably ceramic, though any container will do), and cool until the milk registers 118°F to 120°F on a meat thermometer. Stir in the yogurt starter and cover with a loose-fitting lid.
4. Put a pot holder on a shelf in a kitchen cabinet. Place the yogurt pot on top of the pot holder, fold the towels in half and cover the yogurt pot snugly on every side. This insulates the pot and helps maintain the ideal temperature necessary for the multiplication of the yogurt bacteria. (You can also place the yogurt pot in a turned-off gas oven with a pilot light to achieve the same effect.)
5. Allow the milk to rest undisturbed 3 to 4 hours. Then check to see if the yogurt is set. When you do this, do not pick up the pot or place a fork in the yogurt. Simply uncover the pot and see if the yogurt is firm--almost like gelatin. You may see some watery liquid over the yogurt; disregard it. (You may remove it after chilling the yogurt.) Once the yogurt is set, refrigerate it immediately. The longer freshly made, fully developed yogurt sits unchilled, the stronger and more sour it gets. Serve chilled.

Note: To sweeten yogurt that has soured over time. Indians routinely drain out the wey and then mix in some milk (any type will do). The milk adds its sweetness and lends a freshly made flavor to yogurt.

Kheera aur Mooli Ka Raita (p. 225)
Almost like a salad, this has lots of colorful vegetables, adding a light crunch to the otherwise smooth yogurt. After grating and chopping, you should have about 3 cups of the vegetables, but the proporions don't have to be precise.

1 Teaspoon Chaat Masala
2 Cups Nonfat, Plain Yogurt, Whisked Until Smooth
2 to 4 Seedless Cucumbers, Grated (Peeled or Unpeeled)
12 to 15 Red Radishes, Grated and Squeezed
1 Large Firm Tomato, Finely Chopped
1 Fresh Green Chile Pepper, Such as Serrano, Minced with Seeds
½ Teaspoon Salt, or to taste
½ Teaspoon Freshly Ground Black Pepper, Or To Taste
½ Teaspoon Ground Paprika
Cilantro or Mint Leaves

Prepare the chaat masala. Place the yogurt in a serving bowl. Add the cucumbers, radishes, tomato, gree chile pepper, chaat masala, salt , and pepper and stir to mix well. Garnish with the paprika and cilantro or mint leaves, and serve.

THE BREAD
When it came to making naan, there were going to be at least two tricks was going to be not having a tandoor, a clay oven in which food is cooked over a charcoal fire. While I don't have a tandoor I do have a pizza stone and the recipe in 1,000 Indian Recipes indicated that that could work. The second trick would be the timing of cooking the bread.

As you can see, at left, finding the right balance can be difficult (see my trial and error below). This isn't something you can leave unattended-- the bread must be watched, constantly! I came across some more advice where else but online. Taunton's Fine Cooking has a recipe for Homestyle Indian Naan with pictures which I didn't use for the recipe as much as for the timing and temperature it advised.

Oven-Grilled Naan and Other Breads (1,000 Indian Recipes, pps. 594-595)

Naan breads are the crispy triangular breads so popular in Indian restaurants. Traditionallly, they are made with all-purpose flour and are grilled by slapping them against the walls of a super-hot tandoor. Once inside the tandoor, they absorb some of the intocicating smoky aroma from the burning coals, cook quickly and simultaneously from the back to the front, and, because they cook so fast, moisture gets locked inside. All this results in extraordinarily moist and flavorful breads that are as good as they sound-crispy on the outside and moist inside, and almost impossible to reproduce without a tandoor.

However, making similar breads under the broiler of a conventional oven is the next best thing. For this you can use a baking or broiling tray, or a pizza stone. The stone, of course, ist he better alternative, because once heated, it retains its heat and the breads can cook simultaneously from the top and bottom.

Basic Oven-Grilled Leavened Breads
Tandoori Naan
Makes 10 to 12 breads

This basic recipe is made with refined all-purpose flour and is cooked under the broiler. These naans have yogurt in the dough, for a vegan alternative, use water in its place.
2 Teaspoons Active Dry Yeast
1 Teaspoon Sugar
¼ Cup Warm Water (about 110°F)
½ Cup Nonfat Plain Yogurt, Whisked Until Smooth 2 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil 2 Cups All-Purpose Flour, or Bread Flour ¼ Teaspoon Salt, or To Taste
1 Cup All-Purpose Flour in a Medium-Bowl or a Pie Dish, for Coating and Dusting
¼ Cup Melted Butter or Ghee, for Basting (optional)

1. For the dough, dissolve the yeast and sugar in warm water and set aside until frothy, about 5 minutes. Mix in the yogurt and oil.
2. Place the flour and salt in the food processor and process until mixed. With the motor running, pour the yeast mixture into the work bowl in a thin stream and process until the flour gathers into a ball and the sides of the processor are clean. (If the dough seems too sticky, add some more flour through the feeder tube, or add some more yogurt if the dough is dry and hard.) Transfer to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap or the lid of the bowl, and place ina warm draft-free spot until it doubles in volume, 3 to 4 hours. (This allows the yeast to ferment and multiply, causing the dough to rise.) If keeping for a longer period, refrigerate the dough.
3. To roll and grill the naan breads, with clean, lightly oiled hands, divide the ough equally into 10-12 balls and cover with foil to prevent drying. Working with each ball of dough separately, place in the bowl with the dry flour, flatten it with your fingertips and coat well with the dry flour. Then transfer to a cutting board or any other clean flat surface and, with a folling pin, roll into a 7- to 8-inch triangle. (If the dough sticks to the rolling surface, dust with more flour.)
4. Place on large baking trays or, if you have a separate broiler, place on the broiler trays--3 to 4 per tray. With a basting brush or your fingers, lightly baste the top of each naan with water. (This prevents them from drying out.)
5. Preheat the oven to broil or preheat the broiler and place the trays, one at a time, 4 to 5 inches below the heating element and broil until small brown spots appear on the top surface, about 1 minute. With a spatula, carefully, turn each naan over and cook until the other side is golden, about 30 seconds. Trasnfer the naan bread to a platter, baste lightly with butter, if you wish, and serve hot.

I tried the whole 30 seconds, then flip the bread thing but it made the bread flat and hard on both sides, more like pita bread, unacceptable. I didn't have the oven on the broiler setting which may have had something to do with it but instead at 400°F. In the end I followed the advice I found at Taunton's Fine Cooking. Their recipe for Homestyle Indian Naan says to heat the oven to 500°F and to cook the bread for 5 to 6 minutes.

I jacked the oven up to 500°F and tried cooking the bread for 5 minutes but the result, immediately above at left was two crisp on the top. I tried 2 to 3 minutes and this time came away with something that I thought pretty much hit the mark. Naan, fresh in my home.

Well it's all cooked and that's all well and good but there's another part to each dish in the final project, food costing. That and how the pictures get taken are some behind the scenes posts that are going to have to wait for another day!

FULL POST...

MEET MY CLASSMATES...17 QUESTIONS, KENNY

I've been attending school since January during which time I've gotten to know my classmates but since beginning to write about school in April, you haven't gotten the same opportunity. It's long since time that you were introduced to a great bunch of people. This occasional feature, 17 Questions, will give you an idea of who they are, their culinary likes and dislikes and why they decided to go to FCI in the first place.

You haven't met Kenny before. He joined our class at the beginning of or midway through Level Two. He had been in a previous class but had to take a break from FCI to be with his family.

NAME: Kenny Hibschman (sp)
FROM: XXX, New Jersey
BDAY: March 23, 1983
FAVORITE FOOD: Pasta with pesto

1) McDonald's or Burger King?
--McDonald's
2) Coffee or Tea?
--Tea
3) Starbucks or Dunkin' Donuts?
--DD
4) Burgers of BBQ?
--BBQ
5) What's your favorite ice cream flavor?
--Strawberry
6) What's the dish that if on the menu, no matter how many times you've eat it you still can't help but order?
--Pizza
7) What food do you hate the most?
--Fish
8) Do you have any heirloom recipes passed on to you by grandparents, parents, siblings or friends and if so what is the recipe for? If not, what's an old standby recipe you never have to look up that you love to cook?
--Garlic and chicken with onions and carrots
9) Name three jobs you've had:
--Lifeguard, tk, tk
10) You're stranded in the mountains after miscalculating a parachute-jump while foraging for a rare ingredient, splendifera tremens, a spice that grows only on cliff-sides. After 2 weeks surviving on the horrible-tasting leaves of this plant, 20 lbs lighter, you finally return to civilization rich with it. You can afford any food on the plante-- what's your first meal?
--Cheeseburger and fries
11) What's the most inventive and successful dish you've ever made?
--Papillotte
12) What's the biggest flop you've ever made?
--Cheese gnocchi
13) Who are your favorite and most hated food celebrities?
Favorite: Chef Morimoto Most Hated: Bobby Flay
14) What's your favorite cookbook?
--The Anarchist Cookbook
15) Do you have any tattoos and if so how many? If you don't have one what would yours be if you decided to get one?
--Yes, three.
16) You're cooking for a party of influential people and if it's successful you could win one of the prizes, behind the following doors:
#1 A food TV show
#2 A Ferrari and a KitchenAid mixer
#3 A new commercial kitchen and a lease
Describe what you would cook and circle the door.
--Steak and ribs
--Door #1 A food TV show

17) In 20 words or less, describe what made you make the food leap to FCI.
--It's close by my house.

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NON-ALLITERATIVE TUESDAY: KITCHENAID

Non-Alliterative Tuesday: no obligations, no rhyme, reason or methodology other than that it's something relevant to food and goings-on in Kitchen Toro...

My KitchenAid was a birthday gift from my wonderful folks back in May but I hadn't found the right place for it until this past weekend when I did an overhaul of my whole kitchen. After the cleanup I opened the box and put my new friend in her own new home.

I reorganized the pantry, reorderd my spice shelves, cleaned out my cabinets and established some structure to my kitchen workspace. I still only have about a square foot of counterspace on which to do my chopping and my mise en place ends up in strange places.

For instance, you might not think of the following places as the first settings for mirepoix, baking ingredients and chili peppers: on top of the bread machine, on the scale on top of the sugar on top of the microwave, on top of the coffee-maker on top of the microwave, on my fridge shelves, on the unused burners on my stove on my bed, and on the kitchen table which is in the bedroom.

But hey, that's living in New York City, right? That's why even though you're not independently wealthy and you work for free you pay $1,600 a month for 750 square feet to be 20 minutes away from the nearest subway station into Manhattan.

(Did I mention that the L inexplicably doesn't run on some weekends or after midnight many days during the week, because, you know, it's not like you'd want to get into the city or anything). I digress. And I'm not angry. I'M NOT ANGRY! I'm kidding, kind of. But you can understand how figuring out where to put a stand-mixer might have been a problem.

But now that the extra blankets have been moved up a shelf to hang out in the far recesses of the pantry with the extra light fixtures that belong to the landlord, and the dehumidifier has been stashed under the bed or put on the curb, the food in the pantry can be viewed all at once and a space on the moveable island has been opened up.

At right, I pose with my new friend (who I mentioned back in May-- can the summer be that old?). She's a Nickel Pearl, KitchenAid, Professional 600 Series Mixer. It has a 575 watt motor, can manage 14 cups of flour, has "direct drive all-steel gear transmission," a six-quart capacity wide-bowl with contoured handle, a "powerknead spiral dough hook," and has commercial-style motor protection. A mail-in, proof of purchase deal gives you a choice of one free attachment-- I chose the pasta attachment.

And finally, at home in the kitchen under the fuse box, my KitchenAid now awaits its first spin. I think our first date will be cinnamon rolls which I hope to make for my final project menu.

FULL POST...

Monday, August 28, 2006

FISH STEW

Tonight's fish dish is Fish Stew, Marseille-Style. Fish stew? Hmm, I'm not sold. The recipe says that the dish consists of sea bass, red snapper, shrimp and the always-ugly monkfish.

More after class on the jump...

DISH: Fish Stew Marseilles-Style, Bouillabaisse à La Marseillaise

RECIPE:

The Fish & Stew
1 KG Sea Bass, Scaled and Gutted
1 KG Red Snapper, Scaled and Butted
2 KG Monkfish
500 G Shrimp
120 ML Olive Oil
250 ML Ricard
4 Pinches Saffron, Crushed Between Fingertips
8 Garlic Cloves, Green Germ Removed, Cloves Sliced Thin
500 G Tomatoes, Mondées and Hachées
1 KG Mussels
2 Large Onions, Ciselés
4 Medium Leeks, Cut Julienne
4 Garlic Cloves, Smashed
2 Fennel Bulbs, Julienne
1 Conger Eel, Skinned and Deboned, Optional
50 G Tomato Paste
20 G Thyme, Chopped
4 L Fish Stock
10 G Grated Orange Rind
Salt & Freshly Ground Black Pepper

The Rouille
4 Garlic Cloves
1 Slice Firm White Bread
50 G Cooked Potatoes, Peeled
60 ML Fish or Vegetable Stock
1 Egg Yolk
Cayenne Pepper
Paprika
1 Pinch of Saffron
Salt
80 ML Blended Olive Oil

The Croutons
¼ Baguette, Cut Into ¼-inch Slices, A 16 Slices
20 ML Blended Olive Oil

The Garnish
Fennel or Dill Fronds

Procedure:

FISH & STEW Fillet the sea bass, snapper, and monkfish. Trim the monkfish and shell the shrimp. Clean the fish bones and reserve along with the shells from the shrimp. Cut the sea bass, snapper, and monkfish into 30- to 40-gram pieces. Marinate the fish with half of hte olive oil, the Ricard, saffron, sliced garlic, and 100 G of the tomatoes. Steam open the mussels. When open, remove any beard in the center, and then remove the mussels from the shell. Reserve the mussels in their cooking liquor. Heat the olive oil in a saucepot. When hot, add the onion, leek, and garlic, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel, the remaining tomatoes, the optional eel, the tomato paste, and the chopped herbs. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add 2 L of fumet to the vegetables. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Mix the grated orange rind and the crusted saffron in 100 ML of fish fumet. Add this to the vegetable/fish stock. Bring to a boil, add salt and pepper, and set aside off heat until service. Remove conger eel if any was used.

ROUILLE Place the garlic and the bread in the bowl of the food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the cooked potatoes and process until smooth. Add the fish or vegetable stock (you don't have to strain it). Process the mixture until smooth and add the egg yolk and seasonings. With the motor running, add the oil in a thin but steady stream. Taste and adjust the seasonings, remove the rouille to a bowl, and keep at room temperature until service.

CROUTONS Spread the oil on a half-sheet pan and arrange the slices of bread on top, pressing a little so they absorb the oil. Turn them over. Bake at 400ºF for 1 to 2 minutes. They should be browned on both sides.

GARNISH & TO ORDER A little before service, bring the vegetable stock to a boil. Add to a sautoir enough fish for the number of covers being prepared. Add enough stock to just cover the fish. Bring the mixture to a boil and add the shrump. Lower the heat to simmer and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 3 clean mussels to the bottom of a warm soup bowl. Ladle over the stock and a portion of the fish. Be sure to have an appropriate ratio of fish, begetables, and stock in each bowl. To serve: Spread rouille on the croutons, allowing 4 per person, and top with fennel or a dill frong. Place one crouton in the center of the bowl and serve the rest on the side.

Note: If the specific fish called for in the recipe are not available, use what is fresh and in season. If you add a little Ricard, olive oil, and garlic to the fish and marinate it for 1 hour, the flavor of the bouillabaisse will more closely resemble that of a Marseilles.

BREAKDOWN: The first thing to know about being back up at the Fish and Meat Stations (Poissonier and Saucier) is that Chef M., goes over the recipes for about 15 minutes after roll call. It's valuable, of course, but it also means that with class starting at 5:45 p.m. (we usally get there early and start our mise en place beforehand to get a jump on things) we usually don't get going on the recipes until about 6:10 p.m. That means you have to move quickly. With as many people as we have now (5 generally) and our skill levels improved, we're usually fine with a little less time (in fact we're never really "in the weeds" during service because we have so many people per group (almost too many!). I've been told that Chef M. is one of the best in the school, and while I'm not going to comment on that either way, I will say that he often changes our recipes significantly from how they're printed in the book. During Level Two this meant more things to remember for the midterm-- and it will mean more things to remember for the final as well.

In this case, there weren't that many things that were changed in the original recipe. One thing we didn't do was to add the conger eel that the recipe noted was optional. The ingredients above were multiplied 5X for restaurant service, we baked the potatoes in the oven for 40 minutes at about 375
°F. Instead of doing a julienne of the fennel bulbs used in the stew as per the recipe, we peeled off the outer layer, cut them in half lengthwise and then just cut the halves thinly. Once they were sweat in butter they were lay out on top of the other vegetables on a sheet pan.

The end result was a rather attractive dish. I say rather because while I love fish, for one reason or another I'm often skeptical about how it's going to taste when I read the recipe or see other groups' presentations. It's not that they don't sound or look good necessarily but I think the Level Two fish dishes including the skate grenobloise and the marguery put me off trusting without a doubt that the fish dishes in our recipe books are going to taste good. While fish with cream sauce has grown on me I'm still not a Skate fan. Isn't it more of a shark than a fish anyway? Isn't it on an endangered species list? No? Can't we get it on that list somewhow--it's slimy and it doesn't taste that good anyway.

This dish was actually pretty good. We had to make sure the fish was cooked all the way through though. Raw monkfish isn't something I'd like to eat or serve. We stacked the fish and shrimp for one order in a pile with the vegetables on top and brought it to a boil in a sautoir on the stovetop and then put it in a preheated oven for another 2-3 minutes before plating it.

Chef M. showed us an improvement on the dish, mixing the rouille with the broth separately and pouring some of it in each dish. This adds some more substance to the broth and makes it more of a full-bodied stew than it was otherwise. With the Ricard and without this alteration the dish was very much dominated by a fennel/anise/liquorice taste.

One thing, with quite a bit of prep work and filleting, this dish would seem to be somewhat of a nightmare for a final exam.

FULL POST...

CLASSICS FROM GLOBAL DHABAS (V 1.2)

I've looked over the criteria for the final project, experimented with a dish for the menu, decided on a theme, come up with the rest of the dishes, searched for plates to fit the menu's style and bought the materials with which to shoot the food. From here on out I'll be posting drafts of the menu for the final project with the precis until it's finalized. See the menu on the jump...

REMINAGINED CLASSICS FROM GLOBAL DHABAS

Dhabas are homey restaurants found along the highway in India that serve local cuisine. Between attending the French Culinary Institute and working at the Dining section at The Times, I've eaten some good food in some of New York City's trendy restaurants and enjoyed haute cuisine. But some of the food I've enjoyed most during this time and overall are still the simple standard dishes I find at local haunts. Two of my favorite upscale restaurants that I've visited since January are A Voce and Momofuku Noodle places that serve meatballs and soup. The idea is to upscale standard comfort dishes you'd find in cozy, down-home, hole-in-the-wall restaurants of different cuisines.

MENU

Amuse Bouche
Mini Bagel with Lox
???

Appetizer
Chilled Caprese
Tomato Glacee, Homemade Mozzarella and Basil Sorbet
or
Bul Gol Gi

Pasta
Manicotti
Homemade Ricotta and Goat-Cheese Manicotti
or
Pho

Fish
Poached, Drunken Gravalax
Citrus & Tequila Cured Salmon, Mashed Potatoes and Braised with Chili Peppers
or
Fish Taco
???

Entree
Murgh Makhani
Cornish Game Hen "Butter Chicken," Saag Paneer with Naan and Cucumber-Radish Raita
or
Steak Frites
Steak with Framboise Lambec Reduction

DESSERT TASTING MENU

Kha Niao Man with Cha Yen Ice Cream
Thai Iced Tea Ice Cream with Coconut Sticky Rice

Navajo Frybread Fruit Taco
Frybread with Fresh Berries and Blueberry Honey

Peach Cobbler

Gulab Jamun, Fired & Iced
Warm Gulab Jamun, lightly dressed with Honey Ice Cream

Crepes

Sorbet

Tiramisu

Chocolate Snowballs, CookieX1, CookieX2, CookieX3


FULL POST...

MEME MONDAY: FREEWILLIAMBSURG

There's a lot of food out there on those crazy interwebs and this feature, Meme Monday, highlights places dedicated to it, be they favored food-related websites, reference sites or, gasp, blogs.

If you're into food and Williamsburg you probably don't need me to tell you about today's site. But if you're new to town, check out FREEWilliamsburg's Food section. It's a great way to familiarize yourself with your eating options. They're also good about updating restaurant closings.

Speaking of closings, I don't know how long it's been the case but my visit to the site today informed me of some sad news, the closing of Bean, a hole-in-the wall Mexican restaurant a few blocks from the Bedford Avenue L. I'd eaten there twice and enjoyed the food but wasn't overwhelmed by it. It was nice because it had outdoor seating (about three tables) on the street and if you wanted Mexican but weren't in the mood for the Bedford chaos and Vera Cruz (which means best tacos by the way) you had an alternative nearby. But in the end Vera Cruz is better and they have frozen margaritas (though if you don't need the indoor restaurant experience, TacoBite's limited menu has yet to disappoint me).

Moon Shadow is also noted as having closed. It's only a few blocks away from my apartment in Greenpoint and yet after passing it twice a day for five years I had never visited. Just couldn't make the committment. It's across the street from Wasabi and if I was going to eat in that area I'd be hard-pressed to pass on getting a fix for my sushi jones.

What it doesn't say on FREEWilliamsburg about Moon Shadow is that it's been turned into a Dunkin' Donuts. It's nice to know that there's an ice coffee on the twenty-minute walk to the subway station (yes, I know it's a hike) but I can't say I'm thrilled to know that their poor imitation banana coolata Starbucks type copycat drinks are on the prowl nearby. They scare me they're so bad. It's as though someone let their kids get drunk and play with coffee and fruit. I'll admit to having munchkin nostalgia (ask me about the schoolbus incident) and eating their croissant sandwhiches in a pinch but their drinks are horrible. Guh.

Their slogan is America runs on Dunkin...does it though? Really? I kind of doubt it. Maybe Massachusetts.

FULL POST...

Friday, August 25, 2006

POISSONIER: TILAPIA & PORT WINE REDUCTION

Out of the frying pan, into the fire and onto the line; tonight we return to Possonier (fish station) for the first time in Level Four. It will be the first time since we graduated to Level Four that we'll only be preparing one dish for service.

More after class on the jump...

DISH: Filet De Tilapia Cuit Poêlé, Sauce Au Porto, Tilapia With Wild Mushrooms In A Port Wine Reduction

RECIPE:

The Sauce
1 L Excellent Quality Port
1 L Good Quality Sherry Vinegar

The Garnish
125 ML Corn Oil
120 G Cremini Mushrooms, Stems Trimmed, Cut in ¼-inch Thick Slices
120 G Shitake Mushroom Caps, Cut in ¼-inch Thick Slices
120 G Oyster Mushroom Caps, Cut in ¼-inch Thick Slices
120 G Portobello Mushroom Caps, Cut in ¼-inch Thick Slices
3 Branches Fresh Thyme
2 Garlic CLoves, Halved
2 Large Shallots, Ciselées
100 G Unsalted Butter
Fine Sea Salt and Freshly Ground White Pepper

The Fish
8 Portions Tilapia Fillet, 100 G Portions, Skin On
½ Teaspoon Chinese Five-Spice Powder
2½ Tablespoons Minced Fresh Chives

Procedure:

SAUCE Bring the port to a boil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. (When reducing liquor on a gas stove, never let the flames extend above the bottom edge of the pan). Lower the heat slightly, and simmer until the port is reduced to 125 ML. Add the vinegar and simmer the mixture until it is reduced to a syrupy consistency and about 175 ML. Lower the heat as needed to keep the sauce from burning around the edges.

GARNISH Heat multiple sauté pans until very hot and add 2 tablespoons of corn oil to each. Cook each mushroom separately. Lower the heat to medium and sauté them until browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the heat to low and divide the shallots, thye, garlic, and 4 tablespoons of butter among the sauté pans. Season and cook until the shallots are softened and each type of mushroom is tender, about 6 minutes more. Discard the garlic and thyme and comvine the mixtures.

FOR FISH AND SERVICE Season the fish on the flesh side with salt and pepper and on the skin side with pepper and just a touch of salt. Sprinkle the five-spice powder over the skin and rub it in. Clean the sauté pans and divide the remaining 4 tablespoons of corn oil between them. Place both over high heat until just smoking. Add the tilapia to the sauté pans skin side down and briefly hold the fillets down with a spatula to prevent the skin from shrinking. Reduce the heat to medium and sauté until the skin is crispy and borwn and the fish is three-quarters done. Turn the fish over and remvoe the pan from the fire. The fillet will continue to cook through slowly. Set aside and keep warm. Meanwhile, reheat a portion of the mushrooms. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Cut the remaining butter into ½-inch pieces. Lift the saucepan a few inches above the heat and add the butter. Siwrl the pan back and forth until the butter is melted and incorporated into the sauce (vanner); this will take about 3 minutes. Do not stir or whisk. The sauce will be shiny and clear. To serve: Stir the chives into the mushrooms and arrange them in the center of 4 large plates. Top with the snapper, drizzle the sauce around the mushrooms, and serve immediately.

BREAKDOWN: First let me say that I love school but we're all getting very tired. Between school and work and the final project there's a lot to do. It was good for us as a group to only be working on one recipe today. One of our group went over to the meat station (Saucier) to help them out because they were down a few people.

That meant we had four people to prepare our dish, which worked out fine. I was skeptical about this dish because the port reduction and the vinegar reduction made for a sweet sauce but it ended up working out well in the end, a decent balance with the earthy mushrooms.

For restaurant service we multiplied the recipe above by four times. Some significant alterations? We scooped the gills out of the portobello mushrooms after cleaning them well and scattered the black gills on a parchment-lined sheet pan, then drizzled them with oil and baked them for about 20 minutes at 200°F. We used the blackened-crumbly, baked mushroom-gills as garnish scattered around the fish. Again, I was skeptical at first, but it worked out really well to have the crunchy bits as contrast on the plate.

We also did a risotto, sweating three emince onions in butter, then sweat two pounds of Arborio Risotto before adding X5 the chicken stock by volume of risotto. When the risotto was soft we spread it out on a parchment-lined sheet pan and reheated it for service with stock, white wine, heavy cream, salt and pepper. Very tasty.

Careful cooking the fish! One side was sprinkled with the Chinese 5-spice while the other was seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged in fine cornmeal. The fish was sauteed in butter and oil and blackens quickly so we had to be mindful.

We ended up using about five or six bottles of port for the reduction because it boils away to nothing. Lots of butter went into this reduction and it bubbles up in a quasi-caramelized froth until it incorporates.We weren't the only ones who were tired though. Elsewhere in the kitchen after service some of our other classmates were getting their goof on (at right, Chad hams it up in Garde Manger at the end of the night).

But there's no rest for the weary, especially in the kitchen. There's always something to do. Before we left for the night we helped the Saucier folks chop up some beef bones to be used for a stock. At left, Christine trying the two-hand technique.

FULL POST...

FORAGING FRIDAY: USED COOKBOOKS

Foraging Friday documents Kitchen Toro's exploration of New York's diverse restaurants, neighborhoods, stores and their ingredients and flavors.

Anyone who has known me over the years knowws that I've always been a big reader. I used to read in the neighborhood of 120-200 books a year. Then I got a job working at The New York Times and for a long time, five years, my reading habits have been as ephemeral as the newsprint they were printed on. It's not that I don't read as much as I've been focused on news, NYT readers' concerns and blogs.

But I still have the love even if I haven't figured out the way to balance my time at work, on Kitchen Toro and at school to still allow for a heavy book-reading itinerary and that love recently lead me to a bookstore. If there's a type of book I'm interested in right now, it's...you guessed it, cookbooks. While I've yet to get to Kitchen Arts & Letters, you'll forgive me, because if there's a certain type of book I can better afford than others it's used cookbooks. This love recently lead me to a place named Bonnie Slotnick's Books.

It's a quiet store on West 10th Street, and outside there was, like most used bookstores there was a box of very cheap books for the taking. As I opened the door I came across Bonnie's dog and a small but pleasantly cramped enclave of shelf upon shelf of old and out of print cookbooks.

It's definitely a find, but not one that hasn't been discovered and rediscovered by other seekers of the culinary flame. Do a Google-search (a wandering into humanity's modern collective unconscious) and you'll find plenty of raconteurs describing their experiences, not to mention the press.

But it just so happened that on the day that I went, I was the first customer (at least that's what the guy sitting at the desk told Bonnie when she arrived that afternoon). As I perused the shelves I realized several things, that I needed more context and perspective for all the books in the store, and that I needed to prioritize my needs while visiting.

I came across Ronzoni's "Kitchen Guide." On first glance it might not seem to be the biggest find in the world but I was immediately attracted to it. For $9 I left the store with a little piece of quasi-Italian-Americana, rather, Americana.

Sure, inside were recipes for Baked Peppers, "Rich Italian Sauce with Meatballs," and Sicillian Anchovy Sauce, but there was also Turnips Newburg, Chicken Chow Mein and John's Delight. I'm sure there's something in there I can rescue from Ronzoni retrograde.

FULL POST...

Thursday, August 24, 2006

THURSDAY THE LONG WAY: BUTTER WITH TOAST

Thursday highlights food from out of the way places, food memories that have formed the way I view food, both cooking it and eating it. These memories may be inspired by recent meals, the food-media, or anything at all.

After school snacks from childhood--there were several I can remember, namely a grilled cheese sandwich, with tomato. But grilled cheese sandwiches are a whole other post for another day. Today, Thursday The Long Way's after-school snack memory is really simple on first glance: toast. That's right toast. But don't get snotty--it was all in the technique. It was all about the butter and how it was applied.

I don't specifically remember which brand we owned but I'm pretty sure our toaster was a Black & Decker, similar to the one at left. It had the plastic knobs, the glass door and the metal tray you could slide inside under those tubes above that lit up bright red when it was turned on.

I don't specifically remember which brand we owned but I'm pretty sure our toaster was a Black & Decker, similar to the one at left (click picture for c/o). It had the plastic knobs, the glass door and the metal tray you could slide inside under those tubes above that lit up bright red when it was turned on.

First there was the matter of the type of bread to use. I went through phases of course but I stayed away from thinly sliced white or wheat. The best bread to use had a decent crust and was sliced from some type of baguette or loaf-- French, Italian, and when I got a little older, sourdough.

The earliest phase I remember going through was with Hawaiian bread, King's Hawaiian bread, to be specific. Any of these breads works for our purposes today though-- this Thursday is all about technique.

The first step was to change the settings. Not too dark, somewhere between the light and slightly darker brown settings on the knob. Then, the butter technique.

It's the most important part of course. Now as far back as I remember, adults were buttering their bread after toasting it. This made no sense to me. You got that gritty sound from the knife scraping the toast along with the little black crumbs. The butter never melted the right way on the toast and it was far to crispy and crumbly.

I took matters into my own hands. With a thick slice of bread I'd slather the butter on first-- evenly of course, making sure to butter along the edge near the crust but especially heavy in the center. Then in the toaster the bread went, to be closely monitored. While things were getting warmed up, the butter beginning to melt, I'd grab a paper towel and double it up, maybe a glass of water or milk. Then back to the window to watch as the butter melted, turning the knob as needed and opening the oven door to reposition the bread or tilt it and make the butter run into the nooks and crannies that somehow had been missed.

The outer edge of the slice would begin to brown and the butter in the center would melt. It was a balance of a decent outer crisp that spread about a quarter of an inch toward the center and a slight crispiness in the center. Once that balance had been achieved it was time to eat. Just a slight overall brown on top, more mottled in places than anything else-- the goal was buttery-gold goodness, so that when you bit into it there was a little warm melted butter in your mouth, the bread more warmed than toasted, almost so that it seemed fresh-baked.

That was a snack that could hold you over to dinner. Well, maybe two slices.

FULL POST...

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

MEET MY CLASSMATES...17 QUESTIONS, MEG

I've been attending school since January during which time I've gotten to know my classmates but since beginning to write about school in April, you haven't gotten the same opportunity. It's long since time that you were introduced to a great bunch of people. This occasional feature, 17 Questions, will give you an idea of who they are, their culinary likes and dislikes and why they decided to go to FCI in the first place.

You've met Meg before in Non-Alliterative Tuesday when I wrote about accompanying her and Tim when they went to get their tattoos.

NAME: Meg Griffin
FROM: Forest Hills, NY
BDAY: November 3, 1985
FAVORITE FOOD: ??

1) McDonald's or Burger King?
--Burger King
2) Coffee or Tea?
--Coffee
3) Starbucks or Dunkin' Donuts?
--Starbucks
4) Burgers of BBQ?
--BBQ
5) What's your favorite ice cream flavor?
--Cookies & Cream
6) What's the dish that if on the menu, no matter how many times you've eat it you still can't help but order?
--TGIF's Chicken Sandwich
7) What food do you hate the most?
--Shrimp and cocktail sauce
8) Do you have any heirloom recipes passed on to you by grandparents, parents, siblings or friends and if so what is the recipe for? If not, what's an old standby recipe you never have to look up that you love to cook?
--Poulet Saute A L'Etragon
9) Name three jobs you've had:
--Prep cook, secretary, tutor
10) You're stranded in the mountains after miscalculating a parachute-jump while foraging for a rare ingredient, splendifera tremens, a spice that grows only on cliff-sides. After 2 weeks surviving on the horrible-tasting leaves of this plant, 20 lbs lighter, you finally return to civilization rich with it. You can afford any food on the plante-- what's your first meal?
--Grilled cheese and french fries
11) What's the most inventive and successful dish you've ever made?
--Corned-beef braised in Guinness
12) What's the biggest flop you've ever made?
--Pasta with sausage and pumpkin
13) Who are your favorite and most hated food celebrities?
Favorite: Jacques Pepin Most Hated: Rachel Ray
14) What's your favorite cookbook?
--I don't use cookbooks
15) Do you have any tattoos and if so how many? If you don't have one what would yours be if you decided to get one?
--Yes. 8.
16) You're cooking for a party of influential people and if it's successful you could win one of the prizes, behind the following doors:
#1 A food TV show
#2 A Ferrari and a KitchenAid mixer
#3 A new commercial kitchen and a lease
Describe what you would cook and circle the door.
--I would cook Tarragon Chicken.
--Door #3 A new commercial kitchen and a lease

17) In 20 words or less, describe what made you make the food leap to FCI.
--I love food, pressure and hard work. I knew FCI would train me for a great career and get me ready to work in restaurants.

FULL POST...